Post 4 – What am I doing here? – Part I (Overview)

Working with my boys! Putting up formwork and mixing mortar.

With 1000s upon 1000s of people from all over the world, hanging out in Iraq, you may be wondering where I fit into the picture (And I’m only assuming this because you’re reading my blog).

The Army Corps of Engineers over sees construction all over Iraq—on and off bases. In fact, the smaller, more remote bases have mostly if not ALL their projects outside the wire. This equates to projects FOR the Iraqi people. I’m located at Camp Victory in the Gulf Region Central (GRC) area. It’s the largest base, and as troop numbers decrease, the smaller bases will begin to close shop and migrate their people out of Iraq or into GRC. Another words, I’m located at the Flagpole.

Victory is so large there are actually two offices to cover the work (we’re just conveniently located in the same building). I work for Victory South Residence Office (VRSO) and the other is Victory Resident Office (VRO).

I do not know the exact number of projects my office is responsible for, but I’m guessing it’s in the range of 30-45. The ones on base are usually bigger dollar amounts since their usually for the military and have a lot of “requirements”. However, the majority of our projects are outside the wire, less money but, in my opinion, the most important projects. These projects include building schools, police stations, hospitals, roads, bridges, sewage treatment facilities, infrastructure for public sewage, etc. Baghdad is located on the Tigris River. This same river that was use for drinking water, was (is) also used for bathing, washing clothes, and disposing of “waste.” Imagine a population of 6.5 million people doing this everyday, and the pollutants caused by 6.5 million people everyday. The Corps has worked with the military to set up public sewage lines and treatment facilities for a lot of Baghdad to help clean their water.

The canals that run through Victory (that I discussed in my last blog) are also connected to the Tigris. There are water and waste water treatment plants on base as well that feed back into the Tigris, which also helps to send cleaner water back out than what came in.

The way our office is set up is that we have Americans and Local Nationals (Iraqis) working side by side. The Local Nationals do most of the oversight for the projects outside the wire because it’s safer for them. The Americans will help to manage the projects, we can’t not go out to the jobsite on a daily basis. So, since it is safe for the Iraqis to travel outside the wire (most live a normal life in Baghdad), they are the eyes and the ears on those projects. And in my opinion, these are the most important projects since these are the rebuilding of Iraq (the schools, hospitals, police stations etc), and theses Local Nationals are the real heroes. As I said, most of them do not live here on base, but instead travel in to Camp Victory from outside when nessacy for work. This is almost everyday. They keep their badges hidden—in their shoes, pants anywhere out of site-- until they arrive at the gate. They take different routes from time to time so their activities don’t draw attention, and most keep their job secret even from their families and friends. Waleed, for example, the project engineer for my projects, (I can use his name because Waleed is the “Mike” of Iraq – good luck finding which Waleed I’m talking about!) told me that his family knows he is a civil engineer working for a construction company, but he is vague with any details that would give away WHO he works for. His family lives a normal life, and he will not tell anyone who he works for in his family (and his) best interest.

My projects, as you probably guessed, are on base. But, it’s still interesting to say the least. There are some American contractors over here, but a lot of the work is done by Iraqi contractors. And unfortunately, most of the better qualified contractors won’t work on military bases because the security checks to get their workers on the base is, well, thorough to say the least. Every single day, thousands of Iraqis come on base to work. Every single one has to get their badge scanned, retinas scanned, fingers scanned, multiple IDs checked, etc. No cell phones, no cameras allowed. They even leave their car at the gate parking lot and an armed escort takes the crew to their project site. They may get to the gate at 7am and not actually get THROUGH the gate until 9 or 10am. And then they need to leave by 3 or 330pm because it can take a few hours to get back through security at the end of the day as well. And they all have to be out by 6pm. So they work 10-3 with an hour lunch. 4-5 hour days. Again, we don’t get the best contracting companies because they don’t want to spend the time or expense to get every single worker through the gate just work a few hours and come back out.

And personally, I don’t blame them. The Iraqi contractors don’t pay their laborers for time spent waiting at the gate, which often limits them to a 4-5 hour paid day. I know if I had the option of going through a 3 hour rigourous security check every day, work half a day and then spend 2-3 more hours going through security AGAIN--in a 120 degree heat--every. single. day. OR!!

work outside, get paid twice as much because days are twice as long and NOT be under investigation everyday of my life—I’d choose the latter!

Wouldn’t you?

Post 3 – Where am I?

View of "Freedom over America" Palace through the abandoned Flintstone Playhouse window

Sunset over Lake Slayer

Remnants of Flintstone Palace

Sunset over Lake Slayer

Perfume Palace

A building a know nothing about -- On Lake Slayer

"Freedom Over America" Palace in the background - never completed due to 2003 Invasion

Camp Victory, Iraq – March – Sept 2009
Location: Just outside of Bagdad
Area: HUGE
Population: A lot
Weather: Hot

I can honestly say that I am no longer on Mars. True, Post 2--my description of Kuwait--covers all the basics of Victory as well – t-walls, jersey barriers, bumpy dirt/gravel roads, MRAPs, Hummers and other huge vehicles with a MPG of 0.0008, more t-walls, 12 ft high walls with barbed wire fencing, and did I mention t-walls?

But Kuwait has one thing Camp Victory does not – McDonalds. And I honestly can not imagine a Mars without a McDonalds. Can you?

Camp Victory/Camp Liberty Compound is actually a collection of smaller bases – Sather, Slayer, Striker, Liberty, Victory Base, and I’m sure many many more. To be honest, this place is so huge that I’m not sure if I’ll ever know everything. The population size is supposed to be secret information. Personally, I think there’s so many here, and there’s so many deploying and redeploying everyday that it’s not that it’s a secret at all. It’s because no one has a freakin clue!

The Army Corps of Engineers has their own little secured off section, with their own little buildings, barracks, gym, laundry and “CHUs” Which is a containerized housing unit or combat housing unit, whichever you prefer. However you put it, it's a trailer, and that's where I sleep. There's two rooms and a bathroom. So yes, I have my own room and only have to share a bathroom with one person. I have a fridge (that never has anything in it because the food is free at the dining facilities (dfac) so there’s no point in buying anything), tv, wadrobe and bed. There’s even a cleaning staff that not only vacuums and washes my sheets, but even straightens up my room every Friday. As you can see, I’m not exactly roughing it and therefore really have no right to complain!

This area of Iraq has some interesting history. And that’s really what I want to tell you about, not my CHU or ability to get free laundry detergent (which I do!). A portion of this base used to be part of Saddam’s private resort complex.

To better imagine what this portion of Victory looks like, first imagine Mars/Kuwait again (minus the McDonalds of course). Now, I give you permission to take out the t-walls that run along the side of the road. Do this for several miles. Instead, run canals and thick vegetation along the roads. Imagine miles upon miles of complex canal systems intertwined with small lakes. Now surround the lakes with palaces and small villas, all beautifully architectured with great attention to detail. Within this complex are a few infrastructures worth pointing out.

1. Here is where Saddam’s main palace -- Al Faw Palace is located. This is where President Obama met with Iraq’s Prime Minister after the G-8 summit. And no, I did not see Obama. There was a no-fly zone, and all roads were closed off leading to the palace. I had the opportunity to be 30 ft from Obama in Baltimore during the Whistle Tour, and then was about a mile away on Inauguration Day. Both of those days I stood for 5+ hours in 15 degree weather with crowds so huge I couldn’t even lift my arms up. I'm Obama'd out.

Which is why when I heard President Obama was going to be at Al Faw Palace, I went to the dining facility for dinner – located in the OPPOSITE direction.

Anyways, I haven’t gotten any good pictures of the palace yet, so I’ll go dwell more on that another day.

Instead, I'll take you for a walk around one of my favorite places -- Lake Slayer. Harry (my 50 something Harley Davidson biker friend -- next blog) and I take our sunset walks there a few nights a week before dinner. Rumor has it you can get tours of the palaces/places I'll talk about below and I'm working on getting that set up. So hopefully I'll have some more pictures and cool Saddam stories in a few weeks!

Lake Slayer 101:

“Freedom over America” Palace – Saddam began to build this after we left in 1993. It was never finished due to invasion of 2003. Like most of Saddam’s infrastrure, he brought in the French to actually design and build it. You can see in the picture above the cranes from construction were abandoned and still stand. Right now, the palace is part built, part falling apart (perhaps bombed by us, I’m not sure-- gotta get that tour!!), and part occupied by multinationals. The palace is used for office space and living quarters at the moment.

The Perfume Palace – this is the 4 or 5 story round building shown above. Rumor has it this is where Saddam kept his women for both himself and for his closest friends…

Flintstone Playhouse (made up name). Definitely more pictures of this to come!! This is essentially a HUGE playhouse/playground that Saddam had designed and built (by the french, agian) for his grandkids. It was designed to look like a place out of the flintstones. In it's hay days, it had waterfalls, living room, play areas, balconies, boys and girls bathrooms ( Bathrooms is my guess -- there's tiled rooms with plumbing fixtures. One tiled room is sporting blue and the other purple). There's even an elevator shaft and what appears to be staff washrooms in the basement. Just take a moment and imagine being a 5 year old and having a full blown HOUSE that looks straight up from a flintstone cartoon, that overlooked a beautiful lake, all to yourself.

Also above is a picture of a small Mosque and a few other buildings on the water that I know absolutely nothing about. This is only a very small portion of the resort. But don't worry. I'll hit up that tour and add a part II to this already lengthy blog!! Rumor has it I can also get a tour of Al-Faw Palace, which of course, you'll hear all about.

On closing note:
One of the local nationals I work with told me that the general Iraqi population had no idea any of this was here. They had heard rumors Saddam had his own “paradise” resort, but it was commonly not believed--he was very careful to not reveal his wealth to the public. I did not research this to see if it was true, but it makes sense. This is an impoverished country where much of the population is uneducated and has not realy means of communication and access of the new except through word of mouth. So it wouldn’t be very hard for Saddam to make sure the majority of his country doesn’t know about his resorts.

Furthermore, if this was true, it makes you wonder how many Iraqi’s STILL don’t believe Saddam was using their countries money to building himself palace after palace…and who can blame them? They've never had the opportunity to know any better.

Post 2 - Journey to Iraq – Part II (Kuwait to Iraq)

5pm – Arrived in Kuwait

After a refreshing overnight flight in Business class, I thought I would be very well rested for the second leg of my journey. However, when you get on a plane at 10pm, go to sleep, and wake up and the sun is SETTING because it’s already past 5PM at your designation, this does something to your internal clock that no amount of sleep can compensate for. The feeling is surreal to say the least. ..
My classmates and I were greeted at the Kuwait airport by “Z” and taken to the transient camp to await our second flight to our destination. The camp was located about 45 minutes outside the city, and so I got the opportunity to see a bit of the Kuwait on way.

It’s very brown. Sandy brown to be specific.

Seriously though, the average income in Kuwait is $55,000/year (according to my new friend, Kevin), and most life in Kuwait centers around Kuwait city and the surrounding neighborhoods (for those of you who are not even sure where Kuwait is, it’s on the Southeast border of Iraq, on the coast of the Gulf and looks pretty small on a map). The official language is Arabic, the dominate religion is conservative Shunni muslim, but there is religious freedom in the country – so long as your religion does not conflict with general public or morality (according to the internet). The airport was an interesting assortment of old and new world. You’d see a crowd of men dressed traditional, covered heads and long sleeved thobes, but then the crowd would part and you’d see handful of high rolling men that looked like their suits could be Armani! It should be noted, however, the dress did not at all distinguish class, but merely preference on attire. The cars were of the same equal mix, but this perhaps did distinguish class-- You had old clunkers that one would expect to see in a developing country (1980s Toyota’s and such), but the roads were absolutely NOT in a shortage of flashy, very expensive sports cars. I saw more bling blings in my short trip to the camp than I’ve ever seen in the US!

Alcohol and pork are both illegal in Kuwait.

As I said, it’s rather brown there. However, amongst the brown background, I saw something interesting on the trip to the camp. The desert was littered with specs of green. Green tents that is. I asked Z what all the tents were for. Did people live on the side of the 4 lane highway? No, it was men, going into the “country” to spend the weekend living as their ancestors did before modern advances. So I guess, this would be Kuwait’s version of camping?

Anyways, after about 45 minutes or so, the sun was down and we had reached the camp. Or at least our first checkpoint. This is where we exited the vehicles, pulled out our bags, opened them up, left all the car doors open and went to a “holding” area while our possessions were searched. This took about 30 minutes, and then onto a huge warehouse to pick up our IBA (armor). Finally, around 8pm, we arrived at the camp. After about two more ID check points, we were free to wonder the now pitch black camp. Four of us were told to return at midnight for our flight to Iraq. The other two—Lynn and Barney-- were given a bed in a tent and told their name would be put on the list for their designation. Lynn and Barney had 23 people in front of them on their list. I never heard from them after I left Kuwait so I have no idea if they waited a day, two days, or a week for a flight. Hopefully only a day or two.

I’ll try my best to describe the Kuwait camp without boring you… I now know what it’s like to live on Mars (during a war). In fact, I very well could be on Mars and I wouldn’t know the difference—sand, heat, sand colored buildings surrounded on all 4 sides with 12 ft high concrete t-walls; dirt and gravel roads; very large, foreign looking vehicles that would seem appropriate for a place like Mars with rough terrain and minimal gravity…..and McDonalds—open 24/7. I feel all of these are very likely to be found on Mars (and the fact that it’s pitch black with very limited orange fluorescent lighting coming from the golden arch and the local carpeting “world trailer” adds to the effect). I’ve been to 9 or 10 different countries and this US base is the weirdest looking place I’ve ever been… I mean, really, I’m standing in the dark, on a dirt “road” (there really isn’t a curb, change in terrain or anything to distinguish the road from the “neighborhood”—I just know it’s a road because I’m in a tunnel of t-walls)—I’m standing on a dirt road, surrounded by a maze of oversized MRAPs, Hummers, t-walls and camel tents. But then I walk 50ft down (note, that not one vehicle is actually DRIVING on these roads) and there’s a stop sign, roads signs, and even a blue post office box for good measure. What traffic is the stop sign stopping?!? And don’t forget about the pizza hut, KCF and McDonalds trailer at the corner of Vermont and Missouri!

I shake it off and decide to head to the MWR (don’t ask what it stands for, bc I don’t know –it’s the moral tent) to use a phone and call ma and pa. I walk into the tent (it’s the size of about half a football field to give you some perspective on size) and decide to take a seat at the “movie theatre” since all the computers and phones are being used at the moment—and eat my mcnuggets I just bought. Oh, and I didn’t get change from the McDonalds. Around here they give flimsy cardboard coins (kind of like pogs) with values of 5, 10 or 25 cents. Just now, a man with army gym shorts, t-shirt, PX plastic grocery bag and an AK-47 just walked in, scoped the place out and walked out.

And by looking around at everyone in this tent, this all seems NORMAL to them!! That’s the strangest part of them all!

Good thing I only have to be here until midnight!

Or so I thought…I was wrong. We didn’t have showtime at midnight. We checked in at midnight (and I don’t have a name here – I’m referred to by the last 4 digits of my SSN). Then we were on “lockdown” in this tent until my flight number was called.

To jump ahead, this happened around 2am. At that time Randy, Bill, Borat (I’m not sure how to pronounce his real name, so that’s what I’m calling him in my blog bc he looks and sounds just like Borat) put on our vest and helmet and hurried into a bus to take us to the C-130. The curtains were drawn on the bus so I had no idea where I was going. A hunch I had is that we were taken to the taxi-way to board the C-130….

I was right.

Sometime after 300am the C-130 finally took off with about 100 military (and the 4 of us) on it. The ride was a little over an hour and half. The adrenaline rush of being on a C-130 aircraft gave me a second wind. Until I realized how uncomfortable they were, especially with all the IBA on and when I haven’t slept in what seemed like days.

After landing we were met by a man from the Corps to take us to our sleeping quarters about 15 minutes away. Wahoo!! It was past 430am by then and I was READY for bed!!! We went to a desk, picked up our keys and then we were driven around the corner to the “CHU’s” (split trailers with two rooms, one bathroom). Oh man, I’ve never been so excited for my bed. I didn’t even care if it was a cot, sleeping bag, dirt floor—just let me STOP MOVING!

The key to my room didn’t work. Nor did Borat’s.

I’ll end my journey to Iraq by saying at this point the sun was on its way up. So my travel buddies and I gave up. We surrendered to the life in the desert and accepted the fact that we would not be sleeping. I left VA on Friday, and it was now Sunday morning. We went down to the dining facility for breakfast, then to the office to begin our in-briefing and start our first day of work.

Welcome to Iraq…I’m SUPER excited about the next 6 months…

Post 1 - Journey to Iraq, leg 1 (Dulles to Kuwait)

Hello and welcome to my blog part II – Adventures in Iraq. I can’t guarantee this will be an on the edge of your seat thriller. In fact, I can not guarantee you’ll be entertained at all. But I can promise you, that I will do my best to, at the very least, have cool pictures so that you can skip my ranting tales and still get the gist. Happy Reading!

20 March 2009 – Journey to Iraq,
PART I
My journey actually began 5 days ago, at a little place called “TAC” --my pre-deployment training. There were about 28-30 other folks in the class, with about 2/3 going to Afghanistan and the other third headed to Iraq. But only 5 of that third will be flying with me as far as Kuwait, and only 2 of those 5 will continue on to the Baghdad region with me. In case you’re wondering what TAC is, stop. It’s not worth the brain power. I did not shoot any guns, hold any guns, or even LOOK at any guns. It was basically a very long week of sitting in a classroom, listening to lectures, and getting dropped off at the Golden Corral Buffet for lunch every day. Which is why I will not bore you with the details that I had to endure, and skip to the first exciting bit of my journey – the flight!!!
I’m about to board onto a non-stop 14 hour commercial flight from Dulles, VA to Kuwait City, Kuwait. There, 5 of my classmates and I will be met by an escort that will take us to a transient camp in Kuwait. I’m not sure when, but sometime after arrival there we’ll board a C-130 to Iraq. We could be in Kuwait for hours or days, all depending on where in Iraq we’re going and when there’s room on a flight to get us where we need to go.
Hold on, we’re boarding – well, I am at least—thanks to a wonderful friend by the name of Mike Stearns, I am riding BUSINESS CLASS, ladies and gents! I wave to my fellow classmates as I head through the door and onto the plane. They are all flying coach, and probably hate me right now.

(This is my first business class seat EVER, so I need to take a moment and indulge before I get into the exciting details of the desert, so bare with me for this first post…)

Friday, 20 March 2009 @ 9:15pm—right after boarding
WOW!! I have so much leg room up here I am seriously considering getting my carryon bag out of storage and putting it by my feet just to keep me company!! And the buttons, don’t EVEN get my started on the buttons! There’s so many I don’t know what does what. It takes me three tries to turn on the light on, and in the process I’ve accidently partially opened the footrest and can’t figure out how to put it back in. As a result, it’s still poking out about a foot or so and isn’t exactly the most comfortable feeling on my calves… I imagine it looks rather strange to the onlooker, but less strange than the alternative—and that would be to get down on my knees and physically push the footrest back in.

Eh, who cares! I’m in business class!!! The large pillow, head rest, 75% reclining seat (gotta upgrade to first class to get full recline), and sparkling wine make up for a little poke in the leg anyways!

Oh dear, I just let out one of my sneezes out…I hope that’s allowed in business…?

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Everyone around me has large headphones on that supposedly stop outside sounds (according to the internet). I would to like to put them on as well and listen to some classical music as I sip on my—Mum Cuvee Napa Brut NV Napa Valley Sparkling wine. Unfortunately, I believe the headphones are located in the pouch of the seat in front of me, but I’m not 100% sure because I don’t see them because there’s also a blanket and sleeper pack in there. I also cannot reach this pouch since the seat in front of me is SO FAR AWAY!! I’d have to unbuckle, put my tray table up, lift out of my seat (or at least scoot to the very edge), remove the blanket and sleeper pack, all just to see if the headphones are in the pouch. WAYYYY too much effort for a hunch!

...

Ooooh, the stewardess is coming now with my Mum Cuvee Napa Brut NV Napa Valley Sparkling Wine!!... wait….she just asked if I would like a lemon or a lime? That’s strange, I don’t think that sounds very appeasing with sparkling wine…

Oh no... She thought I said sparkling water!! Should I grab her and repeat my order? She’s already moved on to the seats behind me, and they’re so far away…

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The nuts have just been served, and they are not pre-packaged at all! But instead served in a HOT ceramic ,itty bitty little bowl!! The man next to me ate his nuts very quickly and I don’t really want mine. I’m considering offering him my nuts—but is it OK to offer a man your nuts in business class??
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I gave the man my nuts and it was an excellent decision! It opened up a lovely chat with, Kevin, my business class neighbor. Kevin is originally from London but currently works for the World Bank in DC. He’s on his was to Kuwait for business, then on to Yamen and Cairo (I think?) before retruning to Dc. His mother is from Kenya and his sister is studying at Leeds Uni (where I studied abroad). Needless to say, we had a lot to talk about and I’ve decided to rank Kevin as my #1 best airplane neighbor thus far! I like business class!